Information
Things I learned about soap making.
Also check:
General Instructions
Cold Process Soap Making Instructions
Recipes
Products
Properties of Oils
Mixing Fragrance Oils
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Essential or Fragrance Oils
Essential oils contain volatile aroma compounds originating from plants. They get the name
'essential' because their fragrance is the 'essence' of the plant. Not all 'fragrances'
are essential oils, but they all provide a scent to your handmade soap.
How Much EO / FO to Use
You can use both essential oils and fragrance oils in cold process soap. If you're using
fragrance oils, make sure that they are skin safe (so no candle or potpourri fragrances)
and ideally, if they've been tested in cold process soap, that will save you some trouble.
Scents for Men
basil
bay rum
birch
cucumber
licorice
lime
orange
sage
sandalwood
sweetgrass
In terms of usage rates, they are somewhat all over the map. I generally start with .5
ounces of fragrance or essential oil per pound of fats/oils and then go up or down from
there. Some lighter fragrances, like Vanilla or Jasmine, for example, I'll use a full
.7-.9 ounces per pound but some very potent fragrances (anything with cinnamon notes or
mints), I'll end up with .2 ounces per pound so it does vary somewhat based on the
fragrance or essential oil. If you start at .5 oz. per pound, it's a good bet that you'll
get a decent fragrance.
Experiment with fragrances and essential oils for your soap making ideas. If you want to
stay natural use crushed herbs and extracts. Otherwise, use soap scents purchased from a
specialty store. As you go along, you'll find out which brands retain scents longer. Why
not try tropical fruit scents such as mango, pineapple, and passion fruit instead of the
usual floral fragrances? Just remember to add the scent when the soap base has cooled off
a bit so it doesn't get burned off.
Colorants and Textures
Again the sky's the limit, but use colorants conservatively. Remember you can always add
more, but removing color is a problem. You may choose to make a soap with a lime aroma,
light green in color. Or you may want to have swirls in your soap. Be creative.
Any type of milk-cow's, goat's, cream, buttermilk, half and half, plain yogurt mixed with
water, even powdered milk can be used. Substitute the milk directly in place of the water
your recipe calls for. Whatever milk you use, freeze it before you use it. It should be
"slushy" when added to the mixture. Milk soaps have a tendency to overheat, as do honey
soaps. About 1 tbsp of coconut or goat's milk per pound can be added to a soap base.
Milk softens soap, only a limited amount should be added. If fresh milk is added, then
some amount of Vitamin E should be added to the soap in order to prevent mold.
Most herbs will turn brown in soap over time. Dried herbs often bleed a brown color out
into the soap surrounding it as well. Some people find this unsightly, while others feel
it is beautiful and a mark of the soap being handmade from natural ingredients. Sprinkle
them on top of soap just poured into the mold or stir them in with a whisk right before
pouring into the mold. Adding herbs gives the soap uniqueness.
Natural Colorants and Textures
Yellow - Annatto, saffron, Turmeric, Carthamin
Green - chlorophyll
Brown - the cocoa bean (pods, shells, stems), cocoa powder, fermented tea
Red - Paprika (may be irritating)
Purple - Alkanet Root (for CP)
Grasses, like barley, contain chlorophyll which give a beautiful green color to
natural products.
Alfalfa - Bright, medium green
Algae - blue-green
Alkanet Root - maroon to indigo
Almond meal - absorbs excess oil form the skin and unclogs pores
Aloe vera - relieves dry as well as burned skin
Annatto Seed - yellow to orange
Basil - naturally antibacterial
Bees wax - hardening agent and also imparts a fragrant aroma.
Beet Root - pink to red
Bentonite (clay)- beige to green to grey
Blue Chamomile essential oil - Robin's egg blue to light green
Calendula Petals - yellow. Petals retain color.
Carrots, shredded or ground - yellow to orange (beta-carotene)
Chamomile flowers and heads - yellow - refreshing and soothing, mild astringent
and is effective in reducing irritation in skin with eczema
Chlorophyll - medium greens
Cinnamon, ground - spicy, speckled-tan to brown natural hue - believed to be a
stress reliever and stimulant. Large amounts of cinnamon can result in skin irritation, sparingly.
Citrus essential oils (cold-pressed or steam distilled) - light to deep orange
Clay - clay (Glacial or Bentonite) - draws excess oil from the skin
Cloves, ground - brown - spicy scent
Cocoa butter - causes the soap to become creamy
Cocoa powder - brown
Coffee/coffee grounds - brown to black - also a natural deodorizer
Corn meal - blue to yellow (depending on the species) - natural exfoliant
Curry powders - yellow
Dill Weed - drab green
Eucalyptus - naturally antibacterial
Glacial Clays - Grey to brown
Grass clippings (infuse in H2O) - med. green
Green Clay (French)/Montmorillonite- Med. to deep green
Green Tea - medium to dark green
Hemp seed oil (unrefined) - medium to deep green
Henna, ground - olive to deep drab green - brown
Honey (a humectant) - relaxing properties and can be added in a limited quantity,
as too much honey softens soap (1/2 ounce per pound of soap)(spray spoon with Pam before measuring)
Indigo root - deep blues Kaolin Clay - white
Kelp - green Madder root - rosy red - purple
Lavender - exhibits anti-inflammatory property to help the skin relax
Lemongrass - cooling and stimulating effect
Milks (goats and cow's) - tan to brown, depending upon sugar & fat content
Morrocan Red Clay - Brick Red
Oatmeal - natural exfoliant
Oolong tea extract - dark green to brown
Oolong tea extract - dark green to brown
Palm or Palm kernel oils (unrefined) - yellows
Paprika - light peach to salmon
Patchouli essential oil - light yellow to amber
Poppy Seeds - Blue-grey to light black specks - natural exfoliant
Powdered milk - natural cleanser - added in small amounts (¼ tbsp) until the properties desired (maximum of 2 tablesoons
Pumice, ground - grey - natural exfoliantexfoliant
Rattanjot - lavender to purple
Rose Pink Clay - Brick red
Rosehip seeds, ground - light tan to deep brown
Rosemary - mild astringent properties which help relax
Safflower Petals- yellow to deep orange; petals retain color
Saffron - yellows
Sage - olive (sage) green
Sea Clay - drab green
Seaweeds - yellows to greens
Shea butter - an ultra-moisturizer
Spinach - light green
Spirulina/Blue-Green
Tangerine - powerful citrus fragrance - quite invigorating.
Titanium Dioxide- bright white
Tumeric - gold to amber
Vanilla scent calms a person
Yellow Illite (clay) - light yellow
Embed objects in soap, like small plastic toys, rope for soap-on-a-rope, or similar
item into the soap mold then pour the soap batter into the mold.
Slice cylindrical soap loaf and to get several round bars
Superfatting
Superfatting is another way of making sure your soap does not have extra lye in it -
especially if you think your weighing scale is not that precise. One needs to be careful
when superfatting though since oil can spoil (see DOS or Dreaded Orange Spots). With more
free fat or oil, it becomes more likely for your soap to develop pockets of oil which
have gone bad. When designing your own recipe, you can either manually calculate the
amount of fat or oils you can superfat in but most online lye calculators can do it for
you. For some recipes instead of adding extra fat or oil you can "discount" the amount of
lye you need to use in your soap. For example, if your recipe calls for 20 ounces of lye
and you want a 2% discount, instead of using the whole 20 ounces use 19.6 ounces. Once you
get enough experience you can try experimenting with higher or lower superfatting amounts
yourself and see the results.
Visual and Textural Additives
Here's where the real fun and creativity occurs. Let your imagination run wild. In our
Melt and Pour recipes we have quite a variety of additives that provide interesting visual
and cleansing characteristics such as: bentonite clay, cornmeal, fine pumice, oatmeal,
ground almonds, wheat germ, orange peel, various seeds, peppermint leaves, and on and on.
For anything you want suspended evenly throughout the bar (oatmeal, seeds), add at a heavy
trace or else the additive will sink to the bottom.
Make soap with swirls by whipping your soap and oils in a bowl at room temperature instead
of beating the melted oils and lye in a hot soap pot. Once the mix has been poured into
your molds, add your highlight color and quickly twirl a plastic scraper over it without
smoothing out to get some texture. You'll get a candy-like, pastel-colored bar with whirls!
You can also create layered soap by pouring in mixes of varying hues onto a mold one after
the other. Wait till the last layer develops a film on the surface before adding the next
one. To make the tiers stick together, spray rubbing alcohol on the partially cooled layer
before pouring the next one.
There are a number of special ingredients beyond colorants and fragrance oils that you can
add to your handmade soap that will give it that extra something. While using some
additives, it is advisable to place them in the mold before pouring the soap. This will
allow the additives to be on the top of the soap, giving them a unique look.
Additives
Chamomile flowers. Add whole or gound up chamomile flowers for a relaxing, beautiful
scent and to give your soap healing properties.
Lavender buds. Lavender buds provide both texture and flair to your homemade soap.
Not only do the lavender buds look good but they keep some of their scent when added to
the soap. Grind up the buds as whole buds can go brown.
Fresh ground coffee. Coffee helps fight odors. Creat a coffee soap that can be kept
by the kitchen sink to wash away kitchen and cooking smells such as garlic, onions and
fish.
Nuts and seeds. Soap making ideas for adding exfoliants to your handmade soap. Add
bits of nuts and seeds to give exfoliating properties to your homemade soap.
Dried herbs and flowers. When adding dried herbs and flowers sprinkle them on top
of the soap that has just been poured into the mold or gently blend them in before you
pour into the mold. Remember that dried herbs often bleed a brownish color into the soap
over time. This looks fine if the soap is a natural color and can add to the organic look
of the soap.
Engrave or emboss your soap. Use a soap stamp. Center the stamp on the soap and tap
with a wooden or rubber mallet to embed the design in the soap.
Citrus zest. Add ground or grated citrus peel to handmade soap to provide
exfoliating properties and a stimulating scent.
Embedded objects. Soap making ideas for children include embedding a small plastic
toy in the soap. This works well with clear soaps. Put the object into the soap mold
and then pour the soap mixture into the soap mold. This also works for embedding the rope
for soap-on-a-rope.
Whisk or blend the additives in after you have reached an appropriate trace when
using the cold process method. For any additives that you want suspended throughout the
soap bar such as seeds add at a heavy trace to prevent them sinking to the bottom.
Wrapping
What is the best way to package your homemade soap? Some soap makers prefer to use no
packaging but others regard the packaging as an important part of creating a quality,
unique soap.
The key is to find cost-effective and simple ways of packaging homemade soap and not spend
unecessary money and time on the packaging process. Here are some soap making ideas for
packaging.
A beautiful way to package your soaps is to buy a pretty, inexpensive gift boxes from one
of the dollar stores, line it with some tissue paper and place your home made soap on top,
cover it with some more tissue paper and place the lid on. Wrapping a pretty ribbon around
the box (also purchased from the dollar store) and attaching your gift card is also nice.
You can get some beautiful ribbons, gift cards and little bits and pieces from the dollar
stores with enough left over for future wrapping. You can also place your soaps into
chiffon bags (like what potpourri comes in) these can be purchased from the dollar stores
or your local art and craft supplier. They don't need any extras on the bags just the soaps
inside look great on their own.
Check out the larger soap companies if you're stuck for ideas, online or offline they have
a wonderful array of themed soaps and bath bombs all year round, it might just inspire you.
Some stores you may like to check out are Lush, Bling, Crosby Bubble Bar, Candy Cane Bubble
Bar or Rock Star Soap.
Add 1-2 drops of food coloring to your soaps for color, but don't stop there, you can also
add glitter and fragrance, or write names or phrases using diamantes. If you make soap
from glycerin this is a fantastic way to add flowers, herbs even little kids toys as it
is see through and has a fantastic effect for putting objects
Wrapping Ideas
Cellophane or plastic wrapping. Although this type of
clear wrapping allows you to see
the details of the handmade soap it is recommended more for soap made by the melt and
pour method. A cold process soap will likely retain some moisture even after a sufficient
curing time. The plastic or cellophane tends to make the soap soggy as the soap cannot
breathe.
Gift wrap. Interesting wrapping paper that fits the theme
of your soap is always a good
idea. There are so many designs to choose from that it is easy to match the gift wrap to
the type of soap you are wrapping. You can completely wrap the bars individually and tie
with a ribbon or raffia or just wrap a strip of gift wrap around the handmade soap securing
it with a ribbon of some sort. Your label can be attached to the ribbon or stuck on the
gift wrap.
Handmade paper. Handmade paper with a small tag attached
creates a natural, organic look.
Copy and laser printer paper. This comes in many different
textures and colors. A strip
wrapped and secured around the handmade soap, cigar-band style, looks good especially if
you layer a narrow strip of paper on top of a wider different strip of paper.
Corrugated cardboard. Try corrugated cardboard or brown
craft paper tied with twine or
raffia or a contrasting pretty ribbon.
Fabric. Different types of fabric wrapped around the soap
create different looks. Soap
wrapped like a gift in muslin fabric tied with twine looks natural and fresh, a strip of
sacking or hessian looks rustic and earthy.
Ribbons and raffia. Simply wind an eye-catching ribbon
or strands of raffia around the
soap. This is simple and easy.
Boxes and baskets. These work well for a selection of
soaps sold together as a gift. For
example select a couple of botancial soaps and fill the box or basket with dried petals.
Include a loofah or sea sponge in a basket with a couple of organic
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